“even the fish are a bit drab,” wrote a disappointed western tourist on tripadvisor, but i only read that afterwards; we came upon the temple gardens at random, biking kyoto in search of japan’s longest wooden building.

the winter sun was sharp, and the garden spare. a tea house, panelled in quiet wood. a rock carved with flowing calligraphy. small, carefully shaped trees.

water flowing over stones, and thoughtful places to stand. we stayed for a while, found our bikes, kept riding.